A Successful Bishorn Expedition!

Over the summer break, a team of Clifton College pupils successfully summited the Bishorn 4,153m. via the NW Flank Normal Route. The Bishorn is a classic alpine 4000m peak and is one of the northernmost Four-thousander of the Alps. We spoke to our trip leader, Miss Sumner, to find out more about their incredible journey…

On 29th July, our pupils met to embark on a life-changing adventure with the objective to summit a 4,000m peak. Later that day we arrived in the charming Swiss village, Zinal at an altitude of 1675m and checked into our hotel, which is where we met our two British Mountaineering Guides Olly and Tom and ate as much dinner as we could.

The next morning we travelled to the Moiry Dam 2,249m at the head of the Grimentz Valley which was the starting point of our 5-day expedition. Here we enjoyed the panorama of the turquoise waters of the lake. The water is an amazing colour due to the amount of glacial ‘rock flour’ in the lake. From here we started the steep hike up the rocky path to the Cabane de Moiry hut 2,825m which has panoramic windows overlooking the crevassed Glacier de Moiry. We had a quick rest before heading down to the glacier where we practiced alpine skills, using crampons and ice axes to move confidently and safely on glaciers. The first day at altitude was difficult for most, with the hike back up from the glacier being a hard task.

The next morning’s objective was to climb a peak to continue with our acclimatization. We headed up to the Col du Pigne 3,141m and, using our new alpine rope skills, we practiced moving together safely up the north ridge to the summit of Pigne de La Lé 3.392m. From here we descended onto the glacier, roping up as two teams crossing deep crevasses and practicing our new-learnt alpine skills, returning to the Moiry Hut for a second night. The routine of hut life became the norm, set with wearing crocs, eating as much as we could and playing cards.

The next day, was a linking day, joining one valley to another. After yet another breakfast of bread, jam and Marche thé we left the Cabane de Moiry hut and headed back up to the Col du Pigne 3,141m. We then had a long decent back down to Zinal where we had our first glimpse of the Bishorn which was nerve wracking yet extremely exciting at the same time. After descending 1,466m we arrived back into civilisation where we restocked on supplies and made the most of drinking water that was free of charge.

After a good night’s sleep in Zinal we felt re-energised for the final part of our expedition, from here we started the very long, steep ascent to reach the Cabane de Tracuit 3256m which with tiring legs was gruelling for everyone. A sleepless night in the hut for many with anticipation for the summit attempt.

The 3rd September was summit day. With a classic ‘alpine start’ and yet another breakfast of bread and jam, we headed out into the darkness ready for the climb! Leaving the hut, we followed a rough rocky path towards the start of the Turtmann Glacier. Here we roped up into 2 teams where a great view of the Bishorn unfolded. We weaved through the intricate maze of the lower crevasse fields and both teams moved steadily up the glacier. Breaking trail in the snow was getting harder and with heavy legs the view of the summit was a great feeling. We reached the shoulder and followed it up to a small col where the final steep slope led directly up to the summit. Here we left our walking poles and used our ice axe for the short pitch to the summit, where we all congratulated each other. The mountain takes its name from the ‘Bise’, a cold wind that blows from the North East which we all felt, so we had a very quick photo at the top before starting the descent down, unfortunately, not noticing the Clifton College flag was the wrong way round. Oops! From the summit we made a quick descent back to the hut, skating down the snow (with a few crampons falling off on the way). Here we refuelled, having a celebratory cheese and egg Rösti (which didn’t take long to eat) before making a long descent back to the valley floor. At the hotel we made an emotional farewell to our guides and had our final dinner reflecting on what was an incredible day!